攀岩连接环(技术教学帖：Petzl攀岩之旅——多段结组攀登中的绳索技术)

Posted 2023-05-27

篇首语：读书贵神解，无事守章句。本文由小常识网(cha138.com)小编为大家整理，主要介绍了攀岩连接环(技术教学帖：Petzl攀岩之旅——多段结组攀登中的绳索技术)相关的知识，希望对你有一定的参考价值。

攀岩连接环(技术教学帖：Petzl攀岩之旅——多段结组攀登中的绳索技术)

Petzl网站上一篇关于结组攀登的文章，岩友Steven/小彭已经把它全部翻译完成。现与广大岩友分享。对想要进行结组攀登的岩友来说，是一篇很好的理论入门教学！

现在英西结组线路越来越多，大家也爬得越来越High，有些系统学习过，有些可能只是有些模糊的概念就上了，高兴归高兴，安全还是要考虑的。这篇文章转自Petzl网站http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/... ulti-pitch-climbing，我感觉还是有价值的，介绍了些结组攀登中基础的技术，翻译了一小部分，相当费劲，错误请大家指正，因为我这方面经验也不足，大家仅当参考！

Petzl攀岩之旅：多段结组攀登中的绳索技术

翻译：Steven/小彭

With only a few days left until the Petzl Roc Trip, we thought it would be a good time to go over some bASIc rope handling techniques for multi-pitch sport climbing. The objective here is not to go in great detail about the activity itself, but rather to highlight the basicsand go over some tips that will make climbing multi-pitch routes more enjoyable. The photos in this article are only meant for demonstration and have no technical purpose.

离Petzl的攀岩旅行还有几天，现在回顾一下多段结组运动攀登的基本绳索操作技术正是好时候。当然我们的主题不是详细介绍这次活动的细节，而是强调基本技术和一些小技巧，熟练掌握这些将使你更能享受多段结组攀登的乐趣。本文中的图片只是示范，无技术指导目的。

The beautiful lines of CAThédrale are waiting for climbers at the Petzl Roc Trip.

在Petzl攀岩之旅中，等待攀岩者攀登的漂亮线路Cathédrale

The Gorges de la Jonte have many classic three- to five-pitch sport routes rated from 4+ to 6b. Most of the routes have been re-equipped with glue-in bolts and don\'t require cams or other traditional protection. However, the re-equipping was done in the spirit of the original ascent. While the chances of a potentially dangerous ledge fall have been minimized, it doesn\'t mean that the routes are bolt ladders. Even on the routes rated in the 5\'s can be a little run-out.

de la Jonte峡谷有许多经典的3段到5段结组线路，难度从4+到6b不等。大部分的线路已经重新更换了化学螺栓挂片（是否是泰国那种用胶的？），不需要凸轮机械塞或其他传统攀登的器械来设置保护。当然，重修线路是在原始攀登的精神下进行的。虽然在一个存在潜在危险的平台脱落的几率已经被最小化，但并不表示螺栓挂片如梯子般密集，即使在5的线路上也可能有几个大跨度的挂片！

Crowds on on the First Belay acnhors at the "Diagonale du Gogol" sector.A jumble of climbing teams crossing each other while others are rappelling.A helmet is highly recommended.

攀爬者拥挤在Diagonale du Gogol的第一段保护站。不同攀爬团队混杂的通过保护点或利用保护点下降，强烈推荐佩戴头盔。

Climbing has become more and more popular, as evidenced by the crowds at this cliff earlier this spring. The first thing we noticed: even on this warm weekend, most all of the climbers were wearing helmets. Without a doubt, the technical improvements over the recent years that have allowed helmets to be lighter, more comfortable, well-ventilated and good-looking mean that there is no longer any excuse for not wearing one. Not only do they help protect your head from falling rocks and other objects, but helmets also help protect from impacts as a result of a fall.

早春时来到这个岩壁的人群，证明了攀岩变得越来越受欢。第一件事情引起我们注意的是：即使在这样炎热的周末，大多数攀登者戴了头盔。毫无疑问，近年来的技术改进使头盔变得更轻，更舒适，也更通风，外形也变得漂亮了很多，因此以前不愿意戴头盔的理由都已不构成理由了。头盔不仅保护你不受落石和其他坠落物的威胁，也可以使你在冲坠时避免头部受到冲击。

Falling

Attention : make sure the rope does not run under your leg

冲坠

注意：不要让绳索留在腿后(这样可以避免如上图的头朝下冲坠）

Things get complicated at the belay, where rope management plays a key role in the helping ensure climbing safety. In general, things go pretty well when the belays are equipped with glue-in bolts linked by a chain 1.5m above a nice big ledge. But in reality, it becomes more complicated when there\'s not a ledge, when there\'s no chain between the bolts, when more than one climbing party is sharing the same anchor, when your climbing in a party of three or when the same person is leading the entire route, etc.

保护时事情变得有点复杂，这时绳索的处理对确保安全攀爬起了关键的作用。总的说来，当保护站设置在一个理想的大平台上方1.5m处，并由钢链连接在一起的多个化学螺栓组成时，操作会很顺利。但实际上，当没有平台，或没有钢链连接螺栓挂片，当不止一个攀登团队共用一个保护站，或者在一个三人的团队里，一个人始终领攀整条线路时，保护就变得很复杂。

Second belay station on Biotone. A station like this requires very a organized set-up adapted to the situation. Above, a climber from one party has just started a pitch as a climber from another party has just arrived at the belay...

More in detail, we can see the first piece is not clipped. The leader has already clipped several bolts, so the belayer can free the redirect bolt for the next team. A situation to be ancipated...

Biotone线路上的第二个保护站。像这样的保护站需要很有条理的安排来应对此时的情形。上面一个团队的攀爬者已开始攀登下一段，同时另一个团队的一名攀爬者刚到达保护站。更详细点的话，我们可以看到第一个快挂没有挂绳。领攀的人已经将绳子挂入几个块挂，所以保护者可以将保护站用于绳索变向的挂片留给下一个团队的人用。这种情况可以预想到。。。

In every case, it\'s important to follow these rules:

Everyone is directly or indirectly clipped to 2 separate anchors (using locking carabiners). Attaching the climbing rope with a clove-hitch to the anchor allows for simple adjustments so there\'s no slack in the system. Never rely on a single carabiner at the belay station!

Keep the belay station simple and well-organized.

在任何情况下，遵守下面的原则非常的重要：

**每个人必须直接或间接固定在2个以上分开的锚点/保护点上（用带锁的铁锁）。

**利用容易调节绳子长度的双套结连接主绳，使在整个保护系统中没有松懈的部分。在确保站上，永远不要只依靠单个铁锁保护。

**保持确保站简单明了和井然有序。

Belay used when swapping leads:

Belay station using a sling. Each rope is attached individually to each bolt with a clove hitch.

The locking carabiner and belay device are attached with a clove hitch.

Both bolts are equalized.

交替领攀时的确保方法：

**保护站利用一条扁带连接。每条绳用双套结分别独立连接到每个单独的挂片上。

**锁住保护器的铁锁连接在双套结上。

**2个挂片的受力平均。

Belay station using the rope and two clove hitches.

To be used only when both anchors are deemed to be solid.

保护站用主绳和2个双套结连接。

只有在确信2个锚点/保护点都牢固的情况下方可使用。

Clove hitch for tying off at the anchor

在锚点处打双套结的方法。

When the leader is building the belay, s/he should try to anticipate rope management needs for the next pitch. There are different techniques for this, depending on the situation: whether the team is swapping leads, the same person is leading the entire route, or if its a team of three.

当领攀者在设置确保时，她/他应该预先想到为下一段线路理绳的需要。这种情况下有不同的技术，要看当时的情况而定：如交替领攀的团队，一直同一个人领攀整条线路的团队，或者3个人结组的团队。

下图：

交替领攀（注意：图上的情况是双绳攀登技术，单绳攀登时可能用的方法不同，但原理基本相同）：

1. 到达保护站：检查锚点，确定牢固后固定自己。

2. 用双套结将一个铁锁固定在扁带上。

3. 确保跟攀的第二攀登者。

4. 第二个攀登者到达保护站并固定好自己后，整理装备，准备开始领攀。

5. 将确保绳索放入定向锚点。

6. 第二个攀登者成为领攀者。

Before setting off on the next pitch, always make sure a redirect is clipped as high as possible on the belay. If the leader falls before clipping the first bolt on the route, this redirect allows for the correct operation of braking belay devices like the REVERSO. Attention: this redirect reduces the fall factor, but increases the potential force on the belay anchors. A redirect on the belay station is for multi-pitch sport climbing, with bolted anchors. If the anchor doesn\'t seem totally solid, you should avoid this type of set-up.

在出发攀爬下一段线路前，永远都要在保护器的上方设置一个受力变向保护点，位置越高越好，并确定将保护绳扣入。如果领攀者在挂第一个挂片前脱落，这个变向保护点可以使如REVERSO之类的保护器进行正确的制动操作。注意：这个变向保护点减小了冲坠系数，但增加了确保锚点的潜在冲击力。在保护站设置变向保护点是应用于有螺栓锚点的多段结组运动攀。如果锚点不是相当的牢固，你应该避免这种设置。

Obligatory redirect:

On a piece very close to the belay or on the bolted belay itself.

必要的受力变向保护点：

设在一个很接近确保的保护点上，或者直接在螺栓确保点上。

At the belay, the rope is stacked so it won\'t get tangled or stuck. Try to avoid letting the loops hang lower than the belayer. A few minutes of organization before the leader sets off will help prEVENTa real mess later.

下图：在保护站，绳子是堆叠在一起的，因此不会缠结在一起或卡住。尽量避免绳圈挂在保护者之下。在领攀者出发前，花几分钟将绳子理顺可以避免稍后变得一团糟。

Three solutions for organizing the rope

3种处理绳子的方法

Second belay on the Arête Ouest with no ledge.

Here, the leader belays the second and stacks the rope on the anchor.

This helps prevent the rope from getting hung up on the flakes below.

在Arête Ouest 线路上的第二个保护站没有平台

在这里，领攀者在保护跟攀者并将绳子有序的堆叠在锚点上。

这样可以防止绳子挂住下方的岩石薄片。

The same team at the start of the 3rd pitch on the Arête Ouest. The same person is doing the leading (white helmet) and the second (orange helmet) took the time to re-stack the rope. At the beginning of the pitch, the belayer pays very careful attention to the climber, especially when clipping.

在Arête Ouest 线路上，同一个团队在第三段开始部分。同一个人正在领攀（白色头盔），同时第二个人（橙色头盔）慢慢的理绳、送绳。在这段线路的开始部分，确保者非常小心注意攀爬者的状态，特别是挂快挂的时候。

Why aren\'t all belays equipped with chains? The classic routes of the Cirque des Vases are frequently climbed. Not putting chains on the anchors prevents people from rappelling the routes and getting in the way of other climbers. A specific rappel Descentwas put in place. If a team does have trouble and needs to descend, it could at least rap off the glue-in bolts. At the top of the routes, the last belay is often placed on the edge of the cliff. They are set up this way to avoid rock fall from the top caused by the rope, etc. and they also make it easier for the team to communicate, especially if there\'s a lot of wind. If the leader does decide to belay from the top, s/he should be careful to keep in mind what\'s going on below. Pay careful attention to the knots and the correct usage of belay devices - realizing that the set-up might be the opposite of how it is normally. It\'s usually preFERAble to hang below the edge and belay.

为什么所有的保护站不是都装有钢链？Cirque des Vases的经典线路经常被人频繁的攀爬。没有在保护站上安装顶链是为了防止人们从上往下降而妨碍其他攀岩者的攀爬。一个特定的下降保护点设在旁边。如果某个团队确实碰到麻烦并必须下降，至少可以离开化学螺栓挂片的线路。在线路的顶部，最后一个保护站往往设在悬崖的边上。这种设置是为了避免顶部因为绳子等其他东西导致的落石。同时这样使队员间的通讯更加容易，特别是在风很大的时候。如果领攀者确实要在顶部做保护，她/他必须小心记住确保的操作流程。非常注意绳结和正确使用保护器--意识到这样的设置可能和正常情况下正好相反。通常情况下，挂在悬崖边上确保更合适。

Pay attention to these situations:

When climbing in a party of three, the two seconds can climb at the same time, but make sure that there is enough space between the two, so one doesn\'t fall on the other.

When climbing in a party of three, the first of the two seconds must not remove the other second\'s rope from the quickdraw, especially when there is a traverse involved.

注意这些情况：

**当攀爬团队是3个人时，后面的2个跟攀者可以同时攀爬，但是一定要确定2个跟攀者之间保持足够的距离，这样其中一个人脱落时才不会砸在另一个人的身上。

**当攀爬团队是3个人时，2个跟攀者的第一个人一定不能将另外一个人的绳子从快挂里解开，特别是在线路有横移部分的时候。

Climbing with three people on the Arête Ouest. Here, the leader is belaying both the seconds at the same time. In this scenario, the REVERSO 3 is ideal (it\'s important to take up slack on each line regularly, keeping the ropes taut and always keep your brake hand on each of the ropes).

3个人的团队在Arête Ouest线路上攀爬。在这里，领攀者同时在保护后面2个跟攀者。在这种情况下，使用REVERSO 3是理想的选择（有规律的收起每条绳多余的松懈部分很重要，保持绳子一直处于绷紧的状态，同时制动手永远都要保持抓着每条绳）。

The 1st second removed both ropes from the last quickdraw on the pitch. As a result, the 2nd second is not well protected for the last moves of the traverse.

There\'s a risk of a pendulum fall and the rope will rub against the sharp rock.

第一个跟攀者将这段的最后一个快挂里的绳子全都解开了。这样导致的结果是，第二个跟攀者在最后横移的几个动作得不到很好的保护。

这样有摆荡冲坠的风险，并且绳子也会和锋利的岩石产生摩擦。

It\'s important to master and know the maneuvers for rappelling. Every member of the team MUST use an rappel back-up (prusik, Klemheist, Bachman, or a SHUNT).

精通知晓下降的操作方法相当的重要。团队里的每个人都必须使用一个副保（普鲁士抓结、克氏抓结、巴克曼抓结或者一个SHUNT&ltETZL的一种下降自动制动保护器>）。

It\'s simple to install and it does the folloWING:

stops someone in case there\'s rock fall,

allows the climber to stop and rid the rope of tangles and knots,

allows the climber to be backed up while connecting to the next anchor,

allows the climber to stop the descent and install an ascending system (if the climber has descended to far).

A knot at the end of the rope is also obligatory.

副保应该是安装简单，同时具有以下作用：

**在有落石时，可以使下降者停住，

**能使攀岩者停住来解开纠结在一起的绳子和绳结，

**能起到副保的作用，当攀岩者在连接到下个锚点的时候，

**能使攀岩者停止下降，并安装一个上升系统（如果攀岩者下降得过远的话）。

在绳子的末端打上一个结也是非常的必要。

Rappelling:

Installing a sling for the rappel

用绳下降：

绑上一条扁带用来下降

Setting up the rappel and joining two ropes

设置下降点并将2条绳子连接在一起（图一提示用一个单结连接2条绳子，注意：绳头必须留出至少20厘米以上的余绳。图二、三提示绳子靠近打结部分穿过顶链的下降环，绳结不要和下降环接触，保持一段距离）。

1. 用一根在中间打了个单结的扁带将自己固定在锚点上，将保护器安装在单结下部的扁带上

2. 用辅绳和一把带锁的铁锁在保护绳上做一个克氏抓结，并连接到安全带保护环上

3. 将绳子装到保护器内

4. 使用一只手制动保护器，同时另一只手解开锚点上的保护

5. 一手扶着抓结让其放松，一手抓着绳子制动端慢慢下降

Preparing for rappelling

准备下

While rappelling, the back-up also enables the climber to stop and undo knots, etc.

当下降时，副保也要能使攀岩者停住，同时做解开绳结等事情。

Multi-pitch climbing areas like the Gorges de la Jonte, are ideal for working on rope management techniques and improving your knowledge on a few pitches. It\'s the required rite of passage before heading out on longer and more technical routes in the mountains. Rope management is not something you improvise and it takes constant practice. Don\'t hesitate seek out more information, ask questions, or take a climbing course taught by professionals for full climbing enjoyment.

Climb safe and have fun!

像de la Jonte峡谷这样的多段结组攀登区，是练习绳索操作技术和改进少段结组攀登知识的理想地方。在出发前往山里攀爬更长和更具有技术性线路之前，必需参加相关的培训并通过考核。理绳技术不是临时抱抱佛脚就可以的，它必须经常不间断的练习。不要犹豫，去寻找更多的信息，多问问题，或参加由专业人士教授的攀岩课程，这样才能完全享受攀岩的乐趣。

安全攀爬，玩得开心！

Once at the rappel station, connect directly to one of the anchors.

一旦到达下降站，直接将自己连接到锚点上。

The Arête Ouest can be climbed in a single 90m pitch (Infinity lane). Check it out at the Petzl RoCTRip !

Arête Ouest线路可以当做一条90米的单段线路来爬（无限排的线路）。到Petzl攀岩之旅去体验吧！

附:

redirect: 多段结组攀登时，在多段线路中间部分的保护站上，确保者在保护领攀者开始爬下一段线路前，应当先设置好一个保护点，并将连接保护器到领攀者之间的绳索扣入保护点，这样领攀者才可以开始攀爬。这样做的目的是为了防止领攀者在未将保护绳扣入上方第一个快挂前脱落，导致冲坠的重量全部作用在确保者的安全带确保环上。如设置了这么一个点，就可以改变绳索受力的位置，使这个点来承受大部分的冲击力，所以我翻译成“绳索变向”或“受力变向”。在上面的描述和图解中有详细说明